I finally went to an American doctor about my toe. The first plus is that he's a foot doctor instead of a surgeon who pretends to know things about feet. The second plus was that he's a goofy scouter like my dad. He told me that it was obvious the toe had been traumatized, perhaps going downhill at Havasu, and that there are three layers of nail which had thickened because of the bruising. I was amused when he said he would use his "sculpting merit badge" to polish/drill my toenail so that it wouldn't be pushed down by shoes anymore. Then he pulled some chunks out of the side that were shaped like fishhooks, thus the cause of more pain. He told me it might grow weird forever or it might not, and that it would be at least a year till the whole thing grew out again. Yummy.